The New Kid on the Block: Auguste's Culinary Circus
In the vibrant culinary scene of East London, a new player has entered the ring, and it's time to don our critic's hat and step into the spotlight. Auguste, a recently opened Italian restaurant in Hackney, has caught my attention with its intriguing concept and ambitious menu. Named after a clown, this eatery promises a unique dining experience, but does it deliver on its promise?
The Setting and Ambiance
The restaurant's interior pays homage to the tragic clown in Edward Hopper's 'Soir Bleu,' setting the tone for a theatrical dining experience. The space exudes a hip and trendy vibe, with white tablecloths adding a touch of elegance. However, the real draw lies in their signature dish—arrosticini, tiny kebabs grilled over a furnacella. This live-fire cooking trend has captured the hearts of London's food enthusiasts, and Auguste is riding the wave.
A Mobbed Opening
Just three weeks after its grand opening, I found myself in a bustling Auguste on a Wednesday evening. The place was packed, almost as if the previous restaurant's patrons hadn't realized their beloved spot had transformed. The menu showcased a trio of arrosticini options: salt marsh lamb, Suffolk wagyu, and rose veal liver, each accompanied by a selection of dipping sauces. The relaxed atmosphere and unconventional service style added to the charm.
A Culinary Journey Through Abruzzo
Auguste's menu takes inspiration from the central Italian region of Abruzzo, offering a delightful array of dishes. From coppa stagionata to stracciatella with yellow datterini tomatoes, the flavors transport you to the heart of Italy. However, my personal highlight was the chicken saltimbocca, a masterpiece wrapped in prosciutto and sage, fried to perfection, and finished with a rich jus.
Small Plates, Big Flavors
As with many small plates restaurants, Auguste's offerings can feel like a collection of disjointed ideas rather than a cohesive dining experience. While the salt marsh lamb arrosticini were a delightful finale to the savory courses, they were slightly undercooked for my taste. The dessert menu, though limited, presented a vanilla semifreddo and a rustic tart, both satisfying but not groundbreaking.
Room for Improvement
Auguste undoubtedly has moments of brilliance, but it's not without its flaws. The potato rösti, while delicious, lacked the crispness needed to support the rich blue cheese cream. Similarly, the puttanesca salsa, a bold choice for cured sea bream, felt a tad overpowering. These minor missteps are common in new restaurants, and I'm confident that with time, Auguste will refine its offerings.
The Verdict
In my opinion, Auguste has the potential to be a culinary powerhouse in London's competitive restaurant scene. Its unique concept, combined with a loyal fan base, gives it a strong foundation. However, to truly excel, they must strike a balance between maintaining their hip vibe and delivering a consistent dining experience. With some fine-tuning, Auguste could become the talk of the town, offering not just fleeting moments of greatness but a lasting culinary spectacle.
